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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.